When you take a proper look around the historic Mírové náměstí (Peace Square) in Kouřim, you might feel as if you have been transported back in time. The pretty face of the burgher houses here was one thing that attracted film-makers to shoot the popular series “There Were five of Us” here. It is not just the atmosphere of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries though: here you will see beautifully preserved memories of the Middle Ages, such as the early-Gothic fortifications and bastions, Prague Gate, and the dominant Church of St. Stephen from the same era, where the bell somewhat unconventionally hangs the wrong way up and is sounded by standing on pedals. You can take history back even further, of course, on the grounds of the former fortress of Stará Kouřim near to what is now the centre. The Zličan tribe of Slavs built one of the mightiest fortified residences in the land here between the 8th and 10th centuries.

There is a chateau not far from the square in Zásmuky that was owned by the Šternberk family from the Thirty Years War until 1948. It later became a military store, meaning that stage-by-stage repairs have been required and ongoing since the building was returned to the descendants of the original owners as part of restitution. All that can be accessed in the chateau at the moment is its historical exhibition and the cellar space of the medieval fortress, although you can also stroll through the adjacent park with its beautiful Baroque grotto, laid with a mosaic made of lava slag. The finishing touches to the scenery of the historic centre are added by the neo-Romanesque Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, built between 1900 and 1903, and the Romantic transformer station that dates back to 1914. One important local monument is the former Baroque Franciscan monastery, which is now used to stage various cultural and social events. This was built at the end of the 17th century, together with the convent church, the monastery gardens, and a cemetery.

The yellow hiking trail picks you up from the square, bends off to the left at the railway station, and heads towards the pheasantry.

You come to Vlčí důl (Wolf Valley), where the Výrovka, or Vavřinecký, Stream flows. A beautiful Baroque bridge standing on four stone arches arcs across the stream at the crossing. Walk through the valley, with its occasional rock towers, until you reach Toušice. You will catch sight of another, even bigger stone bridge over the Výrovka a little before the village, this one dating back to the middle of the 17th century. Underneath, the river flows tumultuously over Toušické prahy, a series of rock tiers and slides. Switch to the blue trail just after the village green and continue on through the field and around the former Strašík Pond, the dam of which was burst by floods in 2013.

Join the yellow trail on the edge of Kouřim. To the right you can follow it along the Stará Kouřim nature trail, which will take you around the Slav fortification, or to the left to the town centre. You will find out everything you need to know at the Kouřimsko Regional Museum, which is housed in the Old Town Hall. Then, when you are tired from walking around all the monuments, slip down the little lane by the church to Na Hradbách park, the ideal spot to sit in peace amidst the romantic surroundings of the greenery and the ancient walls.



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