The link between Bohumil Hrabal and Kersko is almost legendary and best seen in director Jiří Menzel's film "The Snowdrop Festival". The atmosphere of the little settlement in the forest, which sprang up in the 1930s on the divided lands of landowner Josef Hyross, is truly captivating. The original brick houses and little wooden cabins stand among the trees in its little lanes, known as “alleys”. And one of them was bought by Hrabal, the famous writer, back in 1965. You will find it at Aléj No. 30, a short distance from the statuary of cats near the bus stop, hinting at Hrabal’s passion for breeding.
The journey begins in Nymburk. Follow the blue hiking trail from the main railway station through náměstí Přemyslovců (Premyslid Square), where you will see a bench with a wooden statue - "Sitting with Bohumil Hrabal". Walking through the historic centre of this royal town, dominated by the Gothic Church of St. Giles, you will recognise that Nymburk deserves a walking trip all of its own. Some other time though. Continue on from the square toward the water, where you can take the ferry to the other bank of the River Elbe at Kamenný most (Stone Bridge). After a few metres you will arrive at U Tří koček (The three cats), where you might like to take a seat, and the Hrabal Villa. Walk along Zálabská Street and Pražská Street until you reach the brewery, where the famous Postřižinské beer is brewed. Hrabal lived here between 1919 and 1947 and it is marked with a commemorative plaque at the height that dogs pee, as the author wished. When entering the grounds, first visit the gatehouse on the left-hand side as you walk into the brewery. Ask to see the Hrabal commemorative plaque and they will let you through.
From there, head back towards the River Elbe along the red trail, which takes you alongside the river, between the fields and the forest, and over the footbridge that crosses the River Výrovka to the village of Písty. Right on the other side of the village, in the pine forest, there is a unique natural monument known as Písečný přesyp - Sand Dune – a dune that moves even until now and that was created during the Quaternary Period. Stroll through the forest and soon the expansive surface of the sand mine known as Sadská Lake will open out in front of you. Bathing in the clear water might not be a bad idea, to refresh you before the next section. Keep following the red markings, which are part of the Blaník-Říp pilgrimage route. This will bring you to the picturesque little cemetery in Hradištko, where Bohumil Hrabal is buried together with his wife Pipsi, his mother Maryška, his stepfather Francin, his brother Slávek, and his famous uncle Pepin.
Continue along the red markings through Kersko Forest to reach the main “avenue”, Betonka, and St. Joseph’s mineral spring. Here you can turn off the trail, walk around a kilometre to the Hrabal Cabin, and return, or go straight along Betonka to the famous Hájenka Restaurant. Here you can feast on wild boar, choosing either a rosehip sauce or braised cabbage, just like back in the days when the hunters here argued about exactly the same thing - which one to choose. Your journey to Kersko ends about a kilometre further on, at the bus stop on the main road.